December 17, 2007
No more. Today, I whipped up a couple sets of holiday pillowcases, from this tutorial, recommended by Rusty Bobbin. More are sure to come.
December 13, 2007
This week I did not do any sewing or knitting. I struggled with some challenges at school. I am very allergic to peanut products (among other things--I wear an epipen in school). We discovered through parent teacher interviews that one of my students had (much earlier this year) brought in peanut butter cups to school and smeared them on his desk to 'kill the French teacher'. He's grade 6, and not particularly bright. The world totally revolves around him, and his x-box; I doubt seriously that he understands exactly what he said, and what it really meant. But it wasn't fun to deal with, and it is something that has left me totally drained. There is nothing like calling parents to explain the situation, and the seriousness of the issue--nothing.
Maybe I'm in denial. I mean--I swell when I smell peanuts, fish, shellfish, eggs or mangos. Life is precious, in my opinion. I don't have a lot of it to waste, I think. The chances of me dying from an allergic reaction are probably pretty high, but that is not how I want to live out my life. I want to be able to enjoy my children, and to (hopefully) enjoy my grandchildren. I don't want to need to worry about touching the desk of a child, and wondering if it will kill me.
November 4, 2007
There weren't any strangers in Chelsea's life--only people she hadn't talked to yet. She loved to talk--in fact, some of my fondest memories were of me trying to get her to stop telling me all the cool things she had seen/done/noticed, so that I could actually teach a class. Some of her friends told me that, without fail, she got a pink slip every year the first day of school on the bus for talking. She was generous, full of laughter and caring, loving of animals and people, and her loss is a tragedy. She loved skiing, and anything active; she was a lawyer in some ways, and had a way of figuring out how to get someone else to do things for her. She made me laugh often, and exasperated me sometimes. She was one of those people who cared about others, and noticed. My children, who had only gone to school with me a few times over the years, knew who she was when I talked about her.
Life is short! Too short to waste on petty angers, and silly irritations. Take time to tell those around you how much they mean to you--and show it, too, by listening to them.
July 31, 2007
I sew fairly quickly. My sister in law call it 'Pulling an Elizabeth' when she cuts out, and sews a complete garement in a couple of hours. I come from a long line of women who sew fast. And truthfully, my great grandmother sewed a lot faster than I do, but then, she was a professional seamstress in a factory, and she had a lot more practice at sewing fast than I ever will, and a lot more incentive to do it! One of the women at Sewing Pattern Review asked for tips on how to sew fast. This is a slightly edited version of my post to her, and I hope someone here finds it helpful.
Sew with your head first.
Sew every day.
You need to sew a lot to get fast.
But, if you are ready to read about sewing fast in more detail, here are some of my thoughts on sewing fast.
- You are the designer, and you are in charge of your sewing, not the pattern sheet. The pattern sheet is only a guide. If you do something differently from the sheet no one will smite you; you will not get a ticket from the sewing police for doing something differently (and faster!). Reading the pattern guide through for a new pattern is suggested, as long as you also read it using your head; reading it through step by step for your TNT after making 14 of them really slows you down. Think through your sewing, and see if there are steps you can change to speed up.
- You sew with your head first, and then your hands. You need to picture how you are putting the pieces together first in your head. It can help to put your pattern pieces out in order as you walk through the process. (eg. for the princess style dress: center front piece, side front pieces; center back pieces, side back pieces, zipper...). If you can think through the construction process in your head, you don't need to stop every step, read the instructions, guess to see if you are doing it right, reread the instructions, sew it, and wonder if you actually did it right. (My MIL is famous for this--and then she does it wrong and has to rip and redo). If you lay the pieces out in order, you also prevent those other well known crisis: oh no, I didn't cut the back skirt....and, oh no, I don't have a zipper.
- Construction order is pretty standard: you put each of the parts together first--front, back, sleeves if pieced--then the pieces to each other: shoulders, side seams, (set in sleeves here)-- and last finish the edges (neck and hems). Once you understand that the overall sequence does not change between garments, no matter how complex the garment, your sewing will speed up. You almost need to develop an internal sequence for your garments--or your own mini guide with keywords. The steps for all tops/dresses are 'essentially' the same (of course, there are always design variations, and details that change...which is what makes it fun.) But understanding the sequence speeds the process up.
- Use industrial seam allowances instead of 5/8 inch seam allowances when possible. Clipping off seam allowances takes time. Unless this is a fitting pattern, a pattern where you need a 5/8 inch seam allowance for a specific seam technique (flat felled seams on jeans, for example, or putting in a zipper), or you are working with particularly difficult fabric that needs an alternate seam finish, a 3/8 of an inch seam allowance is all you need.
- Using different seam allowances for different parts (like in industrial techniques) speeds things up. Inside facings, waistbands and necklines--1/4 to 3/8 of an inch seam allowances help you to sew more accurately and faster. For your TNT patterns, particularly the collared blouses, it is worth the time to create a collar pattern with the right seam allowances. You actually don't need to clip as much with the narrower seam allowance, and it looks better. But, remember, you are the designer and you sew with your head first. If your head/gut say use wider seam allowances with certain fabrics, trust them.
- Pins are (generally) optional. There are some exceptions to this rule, but normally, once you are a fairly experienced sewer, pins slow you down. Industrial seamstresses do not use pins; they match their notches and pleat up their seams along the edges, releasing a pleat as they come to it--but that is another thing. Having said that--I still use pins for difficult fabrics, and for matching princess seam curves, but I don't use a lot of pins. For example, I use only 4 pins for sleeves: notches, seam and shoulder.
- I am not a 'fussy seamstress' and I prefer industrial sewing techniques. I don't thread mark all my grainlines; I don't tailor tack because I am more accurate with pin-marking, or chalk marking; I don't 'tie off' every seam allowance thread tail; I don't hand baste unless it is absolutely necessary. These particular fussy seamstress habits will slow you down. There are always exceptions to this; I would do most of those for tailored garments, because it would make a difference for the final garment. But, I generally don't hand sew unless forced to (except for beading; I like beading). I grew up the only right handed person in a left handed family, and I didn't learn to handsew until I worked as a seamstress. I can do anything with a sewing machine.
- Don't be afraid of the machine going fast. Practice sewing with the machine going fast. Let the machine sew at a steady pace, and let the feed dogs guide your fabric. You will get more comfortable with the speed if you practice at a higher speed on things you don't care about, or just samples. You have to practice to work up to accuracy and speed.
- Chain sew whatever you can; that is, sew one item after another with only a few stitches of thread between them. Cipping threads takes time; shorter threads, less time. This is a skill; if you quilt, you learn this one fast, but you can learn this one with garments, too.
- You don't have to match every thread colour in the serger to your garment (the industry does not!), but the lower loopers should be pretty close or deliberately different as a design detail. Stitch all the same colour garments at the same time, so you don't have to rethread your machine every time you sew.
- Wind more than one bobbin of the same colour when you start your garment. I usually wind two bobbing for shirts, simple pants, and simple dresses, and three bobbins for topstitched garments.
- You will not be fast the first time you sew a garment; you will get faster by the 6th garment of the same style. If you want to get better at sewing a particular style, sew more than one at a time. You will be faster by the last one, particularly if you are trying to develop that sequence in your head. It helps if you don't have to change the thread for each garment. But, practice will help you speed up.
- When you are trying something new, realize that you will be slower at it at first, and give yourself permission to be slow at first. It usually takes about 6 to 10 garments of the same type to become comfortable with the process, and about 10 more to become fast. I'm fast at Tshirts, now. By the same token, try something new and see if you will be faster with that method. Industrial sewing techniques are designed to be faster, with practice.
- Have your tools where you need them, and put them back where they go when you are done with them. Nothing slows you down quite like having to go to the store to buy another loop turner because you lost the first one 'somewhere in the sewing room'. I like having thread snips and small scissors at each sewing machine, as well as a garbage can/bag, so I don't spend a lot of time looking for thread snips! (I have multiple machines, ok. I sew a lot. I also have two children and a husband who 'borrow' my tools.)
- Take care of your machine. Try to get in the habit of using a fluffy 'blush brush' to clean out bobbin area every time you change bobbins. Oil the poor beast every once in a while (beginning of every garment?), particularly if you are sewing a lot. A well loved machine sews better, and faster, and nothing slows down your sewing quite like a trip to the mechanic.
- The honest truth is that practice is the only real way to get faster and more comfortable at going faster. Sewing a little bit every day will help you go faster. Learning to sew fast is like learning to play the piano fast; it takes practice. No one is fast at scales the first time; no one is fast at sewing the first time. Be willing to practice. Wardrobe sewing helps with the practice factor; there is nothing like making 11 garments in two months to get in practice.
July 22, 2007
In the spirit of Harry Potter, Phil enjoyed many festivities at our local bookstore waiting for Harry Potter number 7 to come out.
Not to be outdone, Julian, my nephew, has completed his first FOUR pairs of pants. Yes, FOUR pairs of pants. They have side seam pockets, and elastic waists. Two of the pairs have fancy front pockets too. Julian is a beginner, and his topstitching is great. He didn't have fun with the grey fabric, though; it was very stretchy.
He has completed a pair of navy twill dress pants, a pair of light grey sweat pants, a pair of grey pants with extremely cool pockets and a pair of denim pants with fancy pockets (working on pictures for that pair.). This was week one of sewing camp, and he had never done 'pants' before.
He has a plan to finish 4 t-shirts, and 3 dress shirts this week, along with a water bottle bag, for the wardrobe contest. Who am I to say no???
July 9, 2007
I have been thinking a lot about wardrobes and planning this weekend for two reasons. My sewing pattern review wardrobe is great, but it has a pretty major problem. The main print is not in my colours (or most of them are summer colours) and I am having a real problem coordinating the rest of my wardrobe with that print. The dress fits. I like it. But everything that really goes with the dress that isn't navy doesn't go with anything else I own... problem. The other thing that happened is that my oldest started early on the weekend whining about not having a wardrobe, too. Yes, I am going to end up making 3 wardrobes, hopefully before the end of this contest. But, we are going to do this wardrobe thing with a plan. And, she, too, will have to thin down to what works with her wardrobe.
Most wardrobe plans start with the sewing concept using one of two basic approaches. The first is the 2 suits approach: 2 suits of coordinating colours, 1 dress made of a print that goes with both suits, and at least 4 tops that coordinate. The second is the more tops than bottoms, and a jacket approach (4 bottoms, 6 tops and a jacket, which is basically what the sewing pattern review contest uses). It is really a more 'generic' version of the two suits idea. You can use the print to set everything else, you can pick your favourite colour. All kinds of things can make it work for you. But, most of the things I have seen start with SUITS. (And, if you pick a print that really doesn't go with everything else, you end up with a problem....)
Ok, I don't know about anyone else, but I don't live in Corporate America, and I don't wear suits. I wear casual separates. I wear outfits. I wear sweaters, with dress pants. I teach elementary school. I get covered in chalk, and handprints, and I have to have wash and wear clothing. I don't need suits, suit jackets make me look like I want to be a principal, or I am going for a job interview, and I just don't need to be there.
If I was totally starting from scratch, I would start with the question: What looks good on me? I don't need to start there, though, because I have been a member of Missus Smarty pants for about 4 months, and her suggestions really have worked for me. There is also: Mystyle.com that has great ideas for people who sew, if you ignore the fact that they are trying to sell you something, and the go to the mall and try it all on approach. But, I hate doing that because I spend hours, and nothing fits, so I come home and sew things that do. Thus, the reason why I sew.
So, I'm going to start wardrobe planning with step number 2: a needs assessment. The questions I am going to work with go like this: What do I like to wear? What would work with my lifestyle? And all the other clothing I have in my closet? What do I need right now? What do I reach for and not have in my closet? What is my best base colour?
So, to answer my own questions right now.
- What do I like to wear? Casual, separates, outfits. I love embroidered items, heirloom that is practical and washable. I like things a little different, a little fun.
- What would work with my lifestyle? Wash and wear, corporate casual. Nothing that requires dry cleaning! I need to look put together, but with a bit of a twist because I am always 'on stage' so to speak, with my job. I need to look like I can be trusted with other peoples' children!
- What would work with all my other clothing? My favouite outfits coordinate with a simple v-neck black sweater, open down the front, or a simple brown sweater, similar style. Mostly, I wear pull on shirts and dress pants with a sweater at work. Casual dressy, wash and wear. (If that sweater dies, I am in trouble!) I need clothes that will work into that in a summer way, that I can wear to the grocery store and not worry about meeting parents...
- What do I need right now? More summer type clothing, capris, shorts, summer dresses. Clothes that will work into the fall easily, when it is hot and I have to teach in the hot portables. Tank tops, short sleeve tops, cotton pants, pull on clothes that coordinate totally.
- What do I reach for in my closet and not have? A sweater that coordinates with my summer wardrobe, a jean jacket, a fleece jacket/sweater in a colour that goes with my stuff, a raincoat that works with my wardrobe.
- What is my best base colour? Black, with lots of colours to go with it. Think rainbow. Clear and bright.
- What would my second colour be to go with this? This is where I actually get stuck with my sewing. I keep thinking black, navy, and pale blue, but then there is brown, rose, cream, white, and pink.... For the sake of this exercise, and since we spent all weekend sorting fabric, I think I am going to use navy and aqua blue as my base colours (since I have about 6 coordinating fabrics of aqua blue...), and pink and yellow knit for tops/contrast. I could also do a complete wardrobe in black, but I want to lighten things up for the summer, or in brown (same deal as black). I may go back in August, and review the brown thing, though, since I really do have a lot of things that go with brown already in my wardrobe.
Now, for the fun part: the stash/style brainstorm. Eventually, my goal is to have a sewing plan for 4 bottoms, 6 or more tops, 1 or 2 jackets to go with it all. I keep thinking that 6 bottoms, 11 tops and 2 jackets would be more realistic for my sewing, but not everyone needs to go there. That is a lot of sewing. I'm going to sort this by category, and in each category ask what I would like to wear, what I need to add to my current wardrobe to make it work, and what styles appeal to me (thinking of my pattern stash, and of what I have learned from Mystyle.com and Missus Smarty pants about what works well on my body.)
What do I want to wear? What do I need to make my wardrobe work right now? What styles am I missing that are current, or would extend my wardrobe?
- Jackets: I need to have a sweater style jacket, and a raincoat that is more dressy in my wardrobe, and I wouldn't mind a jean jacket, too. I also need some kind of fleece jacket with a center zipper. This will need some more thought. I could make all four, but that seems like overkill. Everything needs to open down the front totally for my jackets.
- Tops: I want some more casual styled tops, with and without sleeves. Maybe some tops from New Look 6515, some simple t shirt tops with some embroidery on the front, and a princess style shirt or two. Something slightly more dressy than just tank tops, but still washable, and works with what I already have. Definitely short sleeves, or sleeveless. I could also really play with the tank top and make a million different styles of tank top, with all kinds of interesting heirloom type details. There is the one pattern, many looks challenge on sewing pattern reivew, and I drew about 18 styles of tank top this weekend. This may turn into the 11 tops plan...
- Pants: In the non-wardrobe category, I absolutely need to replace my black dress pants and my brown dress pants since I outgrew them. I have two new TNT patterns from Burda. Jeans style dress pants, since I have a pattern that works well, and some boot cut dress pants style pants. Maybe pull on style Capri's. I really need a couple of pairs of shorts, but I don't want the totally slouchy around the house style shorts that I have worn the past couple of summers. I think I want something more dressy. I also think I would like a pair of Capri's that have some details on the bottom hems, either embroidery or beading or trim. Something more interesting that just 'hems'.
- Skirts: I don't wear a lot of skirts in the summer, but I think I would like to have a bias cut pull on A-line skirt, with the lingerie elastic waist band. I have some blue print that would work for this, I think, and it would be a good transition piece. I think I need to make some 'save the thighs' underwear, if I want to make/wear skirts. Not that I don't have the fabric and the patterns in the basement for that plan from about 2 years ago to do that, but I haven't yet.
- Dresses: Sheath style dress with a v-neck, darts front and back, either A line, or straight, knee length. Sleeveless or short sleeves. Pull on knit, A line dress, scoop hem, short sleeves (this one I have the pattern, the concept and the fabric, so this will likely get done first). I also keep thinking that a shirt dress with buttons down the front, with gathers at the center between the bust, would be a fun transition piece. I would have to really plan this one, and draft it for myself, though.
I'm going to work from my stash here. I have to work from my stash, since it would probably clothe a small army. My problem, here, is really too many ideas, way too much fabric that could make it work, and I could actually make it all. If I simplify, though....Who am I kidding? I could sew all my ideas and not even make a dent in my stash....I also really think in outfits, not coordinates. I dress in outfits. It is nice when the outfits can mix and match, but really, outfits are how my brain works.
Another thing I probably should consider is a focal point or theme. Often, people will create or purchase a focal point piece (a great jacket, an embroidered top, for example) and then work their wardrobe around that. Or, they will pick a theme: elephants, flowers, the sailor suit look, safari in the city, and work around that. It creates unity, and allows for some experimentation in a coordinated manner. I am waffling on theme, here. My original plan was summer roses. Maybe I could keep that plan, and work more into the blues. So, a plan. (Hahahaha. My children are laughing at this, since they know unless I sew it in a week, it will morph many times beyond what I plan...)
- Jacket 1: jean jacket, with 3/4 sleeves, and embroidery; made from navy stretch denim
- Jacket 2: sweater style jacket, aqua knit, matching pull on Capri's, white embroidery to match Capri's
- bottom 1: dark navy stretch jean style Capri's, with matching embroidery to the jean jacket on hems, TNT Burda pattern
- bottom 2: aqua blue jean style Capri's, with white embroidery, TNT Burda pattern
- bottom 3: pull on a line skirt, with lingerie elastic waist, lined
- bottom 4: ?shorts...
- top 1: top view A, NL6515, matching the pull on skirt
- top 2: pink tank top with heirloom style sewing/white lace, self drafted pattern, TNT
- top 3: yellow knit t-shirt, with embroidery, self drafted pattern, short sleeves
- top 4: aqua knit t-shirt, with embroidery, self drafted pattern, short sleeves
- top 5: white t shirt, with embroidery, self drafted pattern, 3/4 sleeves
- top 6: ? princess line top shirt, pink, with heirloom details, self drafted shirt, cap sleeve or 3/4 sleeve
- dress 1: aqua blue knit dress, short sleeves, a line skirt, pull on style
- dress 2: navy knit dress, with interest around the neck...
- dress 3: blue shirtwaist dress, medium blue colour...
Or at least, that is the plan of the moment....
July 5, 2007
In the midst of doing my wardrobe, my youngest came downstairs one morning in her shorts--that were too short. Normally, I don't care, but seriously, they were showing things from below. This isn't what I want my almost 12 year old to be doing, apart from the fact that she has grown about 3 inches since march break!
July 4, 2007
Then I found a similar contest, on Sewing Pattern Review. I liked two things about it: I didn't have to buy anything to join (this is an issue for me, since I have a pattern and fabric stash that resembles a small store, and have no need to purchase something just to join a constest!), and the bottom line was that we were all winners, since we ended up with a great wardrobe. So, I joined Patternreview.com, and took the plunge and started a wardrobe. (Did I mention that I love to sew?). Since I had just finished the blue skirt and bias cut top to match out of the scraps, I thought I should try and coordinate a comfortable summer wardrobe to go.
The rules are pretty simple:
April 29, 2007
Liked the idea, made the sweater, and hated (absolutely HATED) the neckline, which is very low in both the front and the back. Probably appropriate for the Russian Orphanages, but not my cup of tea. But the construction was unique, and interesting, and the stripes were cool. I used up a lot of wool, created two sweaters, and moved onto working on one for my daughter, but with a slight difference.
The orphans for orphans pattern only goes up to a size 6 or so, and my youngest daughter is a size 10, so I decided to try my hand at a similar sweater, with a few differences.
I call this the 'Swatchless Striped Sweater'. The nice thing about this sweater is that it uses up odd balls of wool, and has interesting stripes that do not need to be matched across the front and back of the sweater.
Swatchless Striped Sweater:
Key measurements: desired finished chest measurement, center back neck to wrist measurement, sweater length from top of shoulder to desired length, drop of the front neck (on adults, roughly 3 to 3 1'2 inches, on children 2 to 3 inches, depending on size), desired depth to underarm.
Yarn, assorted lengths in roughly the same weight. Needles appropriate to the yarn choice: circular needles are needed to accommodate the large number of stitches when knitting the side panels.
Unswatched Back panel:
Start by making an educated guess about your wool, and casting on roughly 6 inches worth of stitches for adults, 5 inches for older children and 4 inches for younger children and toddlers. Keep track of the number of stitches you cast on. (The width doesn't need to be perfect, just a rough guess--necklines for adults are anywhere from 5 to 7 inches across). Knit for a bit; if you like the look of what you are knitting, keep going until the piece is roughly 3 inches shorter than your desired back length (2 1/2 inches for the bottom finish, and 1/2 inch allowed for the back shoulder drop). If you don't like your knitting, pull it out and start again, trying different needles, or a different number of stitches. It isn't a 'swatch'--it is the back center panel.
Cast on the same number of sts as the back panel, and knit a second piece, this time shorter than the first piece by 2 to 3 inches (the neckline depth). Measure your piece across, and calculate your gauge (just to give you an idea of how many stitches you will need to cast on at the top of the shoulder, and to determine your ratio of pick ups when you pick up the stitches along the sides; mostly your sweater is determined by knitting and measuring!). You determine how deep to knit the side panels onto the center front and back panels by subtracting the width of the center panel from half the desired total circumference of the sweater, and dividing this by two (one half on each side of the panel).
Change yarns wherever you want, or when you run out of a ball and have to start another. This is a stash reducing sweater--use all the oddballs up, since the stripes are unique and do not need to be matched, there are not a lot of worries about not getting everything 'perfect'. You can play with patterns, too, if you want (although I didn't with mine--just knitting up all kinds of different yarn bits).
Picking up for the sides:
Lay the panels with the front panel on the right, and the back panel of the sweater on the left, with the top (cast off portions) in the middle. Pick up stitches along the front (on my gauge, I picked up 3 sts every 4 rows), cast on the calculated number of stitches needed for the depth of the front neck (2 to 3 inches) plus the depth of the back neck (1/2 inch), then pick up the needed number of stitches along the back panel. Make a note of this number somewhere (so that you pick up the same number of stitches on the second side!) Knit the sides, to the desired depth you calculated.
Calculate the number of stitches to 'cast off' for the underarm depth (minus your hem treatment). Put the number of stitches for your desired armhole depth onto a spare thread on the front and the back (to be grafted together after the sleeve is finished), and then knit down the sleeve. I decreased 1 stitch every 4th row, each end, until I reached the desired wrist width (roughly 25% of the desired chest measurement), and then knit until I reached the desired center back neck to sleeve measurement without the 'hem treatment' (ribbing, moss stitch, garter stitch, something non curling is best). Then I finished the sleeve with the non-curling hem treatment (in my case, 2 1/2 inches of ribbing). Complete the second side same as the first. Graft the sides together, and then pick up and knit the stitches around the bottom for the desired hem treatment (in my case 2 1/2 inches of ribbing).
This one is fun, and really gets the extra bits of wools 'gone'.
March 1, 2007
you don't have enough wool.
You are reduced to cannibalizing swatch, and then digging in the amazing stash to find that no, you really don't have enough wool the right colour to finish the last 4 rows at the shoulders of your conservatively cabled pink sweater. You have 12 other colours/weights/varieties of pink that do not go, and many other balls in colours that will simply not do without re knitting a significant portion of your sweater. So, you break down and go purchase another ball (a Pounder, no less) to finish that last 6 rows or so of your sweater. You have knit a significant portion of your stash.
But it is getting BIGGER!
Is anyone else out there finding this?
This has happened on the last 4 sweaters I have knit:
The pink cabled wonder, made of Bernet Pounder (love it, needed another ball of Pounder to finish the last 8 rows, and the button band, even after cannibalizing the swatch);
The green pullover (ripped out the swatch, knit it in and was still short that last 4 rows; luckily was able to find a hidden ball languishing; it is another pounder sweater);
Purple eyelets from Kids, Kids, Kids (last 4 rows are in a different wool, in a different colour; yarn is NO longer available, too bad, so sad....but at least the sweater looks pretty with a darker contrast, and I didn't buy anything);
The sweater for my MIL, at Christmas (purchased 2 new balls to finish; needed only 3/4 of one. Now, of course, I have enough to start a sweater with the leftovers from hers, but I will need to go and buy more wool if I want to finish it).
I got lucky with my burgundy sweater. After I cannibalized the swatch to finish the neckline, I had exactly 19 inches of wool left. This burgundy sweater is a reincarnation of a cream sweater that I made from Wendy Knits. There is no more of that wool to be found anywhere. I love the new sweater. It fits me. It doesn't hang off my body like it belonged to my much larger husband, or would fit us both together. My SIL looks great in the original sweater. Obviously, I (being a mere 5'1", and having lost 10 or so pounds going to the gym regularly) had delusions of grandeur when I was making that sweater. The pattern worked fine, my tension was fine. But, it is a fact that my SIL is 5'10, and statuesque, and, like I said, she looks great in my cream coloured sweater.
February 19, 2007
Knitting is happening here. Amazing.
Did someone say pictures??
Oh, well, hmmmm
February 9, 2007
Today, I am wearing my handmade cream sweater, made from the leftovers of my knitting olympic challenge. I finished my very first set in sleeve sweater in the round last week--that was WAY cool to do, as I have never cut a steek before (nerve wracking, ladies, nerve wracking!).
I am participating in a number of groups at work (groups aimed at spending money; groups aimed at making the transitions between grades and schools easier in a second language, groups just for the sake of groups), as well as updating my own, and my two school's websites. Needless to say, knitting and actually taking the pictures and posting them is turning into a challenge.
Here is my work website:
There are a number of great knitting links on the knitting page. Check it out.
January 9, 2007
In the interest of trying something new, here is a simple lace edging for the Striper Stash Busters:
Cast on 10 sts.
row 1, and all odd rows: knit all sts.
row 2: k2, yo, k2tog, yo, knit to end.
row 4: k2, yo, k2tog, yo, knit to end.
row 6: k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, knit to end.
row 8: k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, knit to end.
row 10: cast off first 4 sts, knit to end (10 sts remaining)
row 12: knit (This is the spot to change colours of yarn, if you want to do a pattern, or just use up the stash for knitting).
My blocks needed 8 repeats per strip, and 9 repeats per block of 80 rows, plus one on each end for neatness. These will be put on like quilt block edgings: first the short ends, then the long sides, after having been knit separately.
You can, of course, cast on more, or less (although, I don't think less than 6 sts cast on will give you a nice edging to keep the blanket from rolling in). I think I will try it, for fun.
January 1, 2007
My father in law had a 'minor' stroke Friday (although he is a lot better) and will be in the hospital for a while. Is any stroke a minor stroke? The funniest part of this, in my opinion, is that he now speaks French better than he speaks English (and he didn't speak French a lot before this!). But, he can communicate, he can eat, and he is beginning to move around. So, be thankful for small blessings.
Today is New Year's day, and the first day that I propose to not go shopping (except for essentials, of course, like food). I can't even include sock wool, since I have a large bucket full. So, in the interest of surviving this new year, I will be joining the Knit from my stash group, from Wendy Knits...
Check it out here: