December 11, 2012

A new Skill!

This is an official SQUEE!

I learned how to knit entrelac tonight at Guild!  I have wanted to do this forever and ever.  I have two books on it.  But, I've never even tried.

Just a small little picture:
So so very cool!  Now I want to knit all the things! A huge shout out to our Guild Membership Mistress who helped me learn this technique!  Thank you!

It is December, and that means swap!

I'm a sucker for swap, it is true.  And this December is no exception--swap is coming!  Planning has started chez the boppings, and on Artisan Square.  This year the concept is two capsules with a linking piece.  I've been toying with two different concepts--one inspired by Eileen Fisher's awesome mix and match clothing, and one called 'Doing it Designer' where I would use all kinds of patterns from different independent designers to create a mix and match wardrobe.  I'm not sure which one is actually winning at the moment, particularly since I have fabric for both, washed and ready to sew.

Option 1:  Doing it Designer,
An exploration of Designer Patterns in a corporate casual lifestyle...

These are the patterns I was thinking about:

Tops:
Cap Sleeve Top from Loes Hinse, V neck option
Paco Peralta Cowl neck top, or some variation of this idea (but I have this pattern, so I want to try it)

Style Arc Kaite Top
Paco Peralta Cowl top


Pants: 
Style Arc Skinny Jeans

Bilbao Pants, narrow leg

Style Arc Linda Pant

 Linking Piece, coat:
Linking Piece: Paco Peralta Dolman Coat, which looks exactly like this inpiration piece!

I've made wearable muslins of the Loes Hinse patterns, and both of them are a hit.  The Linda Pants, and the Kaite top also have been a hit, and are totally going to work in some way.  But, I haven't tackled the Paco patterns yet, and the coat kind of intimidates me a little. 

For colours, I've been thinking of red, black and grey, with a plum coat, since I have plum coating fabric in the basement fabric store.

Option 2:  Suitcase Sally
An exploration of patterns , inspired by Eileen:


 A lot of the same patterns, but different fabrics, and a totally different vibe.  Teal and Black Rayon Lycra, tiger print blue/black/white knit, some black ponte,  and some dark grey stretch denim.  The left side is for work, the right for play, and the goal is to have it all fit in a carry on suitcase, to go for a quick trip.  Again, I have all the fabric in my basement, washed and ready to go.  I just have to start.

And, I can't decide!  Argh!



November 18, 2012

Exercise, and pattern reality

About a month ago, I realized that I was getting old lady wings. 

This was a horrifying realization. Between the stress level I've been dealing with and the wings, it made me realize it was time to try something different to get exercise.  I've been going to a weekly Karate Aerobics class, which is fun and gives me a chance to see my god-son on a regular basis, but a whole bunch of things were making it impossible to find a way to exercise outside of that class, and I wasn't always able to go to class. Getting to the gym with my current schedule was just not going to happen, which was why I was looking at different options.  My life has been, well, insane is a nice way to put it, but I digress.

A search of Amazon for a no equipment workout  led me to this workout book.  Mark Lauren trains Navy SEALs for a living.  He starts his book with the statement: I don't train movie stars to look good on film; I train men whose lives, and the lives of others, depend on being fit.  This totally changed my own perspective on fitness.  The 'You are Your Own Gym' book contains workouts that can be done in 20 to 30 minutes.  So far, the equipment includes a towel, a table or chair, and a door--we all have those.   And he walks through how to do the exercises, and how to modify them (both less and more challenging) to make them doable.  There is an ipod app that is FABULOUS! I can totally see how his work outs would work for someone who is stuck in a third world country and has maybe a chair, door, and tree. Or an over stressed teacher who needs to work out to manage her stress level. 

I decided to give the whole thing a go, and so far, I have been managing to complete the work outs  three or four times a week.  I'm now about half way through week 3 of the beginner series. I'm modifying lots of stuff to make it challenging but not impossible, and I am doing it.

Which brings me to the next portion of my post:  if you work out consistently, even if it is only three or four times a week for twenty minutes, you will tone up.  And, you will have to take in all your clothes and redo all your basic patterns.  

Today, I traced, cut and sewed a swing dress in the size I always make, based on measurements, and then promptly took four inches to make it fit. Since I did that to the last two pairs of pants, and two skirts I made, I have to say I must be a slow learner.  It isn't the pattern's fault the clothing is too big--it is my body image issues.  My youngest asked me why I keep sewing the same thing when the patterns don't lie.  I am not the same shape I was, let alone the same size I was, but my brain, and the picture that I carry in my head of what shape I am, have not caught up to the reality of my pattern size.  It is a different problem to have, one I haven't had before.   This may mean that SWAP may become a necessity, not just for fun.  We shall see. 

July 31, 2012

Sewing sewing sewing weaving....

Oh, I've been having fun.  I've been sewing for the pattern stash contest.  I will never win the most made but I have made quite a few items, some of which worked for me and some of which were disasters that shall never be repeated..  So here are a few pictures to show what I've been up to:

The good stuff:
McCall's 2772
Bathing suit.

Fabric:
3/4m polyester lycra swimsuit fabric;
1/4m bathing suit lining, nude
Notions:
1" swimwear hook
 1/2" bathing suit elastic for waist and for lower bodice edge
3/8" bathing suit elastic for everything else.

I made this exactly as the pattern suggested (strange), and it looks like the pattern, too!  Only issue was that the band is loose on me, so I've taken out about 2" total on the back by adjusting the hooks.  This one is going to get made again for sure.

Dress:
Textile Studios 1407 Barcelona dress

 Fabric:
I eeked this out of 4 m of 45" rayon batik, and I mean eeked.  I pieced the back to get the full swing of the drape of the skirt. (It is supposed to take 3.25 m of 60 fabric).
Notions:  
none except thread, gotta love that!
Time--about an hour, all together.  Fast and silly, but totally comfortable.  Maybe not the most flattering dress I own (particularly this long and in this almost glow in the dark print print), but it will work as a bathing suit cover up.  And it is comfortable.  

Tshirt
Ottobre Designs 303 Women's best tops


Fabric: 1.2 m of cotton stretch lace
Notions: thread
Comments:  I'm sad this one is not in print any more--it is a fabulous pattern.  If they have back issues of the magazine it is in, I would suggest you run and grab one because it is totally awesome.  Only change I made was to add 1 1/2" to the bicep measurement to give me some ease there.  And the usual shorten 4", since I'm short.  Otherwise, totally easy and quick and perfect.  I like the ottobre block. 

Shown with another yoga skirt, this time shortened about 4" to make it fit the piece of fabric that I had left.  Um, and the waistband was pieced, too.  I had a 4" square remnant when I was finished.

Sweater: 
Christine Johnson Swing jacket 519
 
 
 Fabric:  2 m lightweight rayon poly lycra, black.
Notions: thread :D
Comments: I shortened the sleeves 3 inches but didn't do anything else.  Next time I'll shorten above the waist by an inch so the pockets don't hang so low, and I will shorten the bottom by about three inches because this hangs to nearly my knees. It works great as a bathrobe! And it is wrinkled because I had to drag it out of the bag I had stashed it in because I've been wearing it non-stop since I made it last week.  For the win! 

And now, for something completely different:
Weaving! 


Warping...  
In the beginning, there was just a little bit...
 
And then some more

And then an awesome 2 m long shawl!



 This is my very first weaving piece on my 'newish' rigid heddle loom.  The loom was a story all by itself, and I will share it, dear readers, another day.  Suffice to say, I was very happy to find out that the Knitter's Loom Heddles fit this, my 20" garage sale bargain! 

My shawl came out just over 2m long, and 15" wide after washing and blocking, and the edges are actually very even, which, for a very first project is just...Awesome!  Squee!  

Warp:  cotton fingering weight, burgundy, 160 threads, far too long in warp length (I cut off another 130" from the end of this after I realized how long the warp was!)
Weft: acrylic fuzzy cream, fingering weight mystery cone yarn (gotta love the Romni basement bargains!)
10 epi heddle
Even weave technique.




July 23, 2012

Yoga Skirt Sihlouette 2010


Fabric: 1.2 m blue cotton rayon lycra knit

Notions: thread, and 33 inches of 1 1/2" elastic

Pattern Silhouette Yoga Skirt 2010

Pattern Description:
3 pattern piece slightly A line skirt for knits, with wide enclosed elastic waistband

Pattern Sizing:
Includes child sizes 8 to 18, and Ladies sizes 1-8, Size chosen for pattern are based on finished measurements of favourite garments. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Absolutely!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy.  This is a serious doll clothes garment.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Super easy pattern. 
I found that I did not use the correct size because my hip drop was slightly less than the pattern, so with shortening, pattern was perfect.  I ended up shortening the pattern at the waist by 1" to get the correct size and shape. 

Fabric Used:
Very light weight Rayon Cotton Lycra knit.  This is a lovely clingy fabric. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the pattern to my preferred knee length.  I also widened the waist based on my own measurements, which are between the size 3 and 4 Ladies. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Well, I made two of them, and plan on making more, so yes. 

Conclusion:
This one is a keeper.  I'm trying to make a series of clothing based on easy wear, easy care clothing shapes.  I recommend this pattern highly.


July 13, 2012

A 'new' approach to sewing...

Seriously, this is not a 'new' approach to sewing, but a tried and true approach that I haven't tried before, so it is new for me.  Why it is new for me I am not sure.  I've been sewing for a really long time. I've drafted my own slopers and patterns and made custom wedding dresses.  You would think that I had figured this one out before (!!) but I actually haven't tried it. 

There is a  'new' contest running on Pattern Review--the Pattern stash contest. I am going to enter this contest (again).  If you haven't heard of it, the rules are pretty simple: pick a pattern you haven't used that is older than 6 months in your stash.  Make it, review it, enter it.  One point per pattern--she/he with the most points wins, and there is a random draw, too, for those who didn't make the most patterns. So, has anyone seen my pattern cupboard?  When our local Fabricland moved out of the mall, I bought one of their pattern drawer files, and now it is nearly full.  I think it is time to sew something up.  Something! Anything!  It goes with my fabric stash of insanity, which needs to be sewn down to the point it fits on the huge shelves.

But this time, I am going to use my Sure-Fit blueprint to actually fit those patterns to me, so I don't have as many waders as normal (at least for fit--style is another question altogether).  If you haven't tried this system, it is definitely worth looking at.  I've used it for me (petite and pear, but a European 42), for my MIL (14 on top, 28 on bottom), my SIL (18 on top 28 on bottom, but a very different shape) and my other SIL (18 all the way darlhing!) and it has worked for all of us.  Pants that fit, whoohooo. It is kind of like doll clothes for people--measure, connect the dots, sew it up, make tiny changes.  The service is excellent, and the product has been around for many years, but I think it has been under-used. I haven't used the dress kit, so I am going to count that for one of my untried patterns, but I have faith that it will work for me since the pants and shirt kit both worked for me. 

I am not taking courses this summer, so I have time.  I certainly have enough stash to sew stuff up and get it off the floor.  And, if nothing else, I will get some new clothes out of the deal.   

July 10, 2012

A dress inspired by Madmen and Flowers

 Finally, a sewing post!
Yes, I am alive, and I have not been sewing--well, I haven't even really been crafting either. School is out, and I have been sleeping and resting and cleaning.  I had an injury in May, and until today I haven't been near much of anything, except my spinning wheel.  I can spin without my hands hurting, which is nice, but it doesn't finish my husband's anniversary present or anything else on my list, which is huge.

However, today I finally woke up feeling better, so, inspired by the Headmistress Challenge for the House Cup, I have dug into my deep stash, and made something for a portkey--a dress, that can go formal or less depending on my day.  



Fabric:
1.2 m of printed French terry, overdyed with navy blue.  I could have used less, but cut the whole piece for length, and then shortened it after this picture.


Pattern: 
Silhouette 109 Hoodie and top
Pattern Description:
Pattern contains v neck hoodie and sleeveless top, both for knits, with multiple dart front pieces B, C and D (French dart style).

Pattern Sizing:
8 sizes, chosen based on finished measurements of favourite clothing. I choose to make a top in size 4, in a D cup with no changes except to lengthen the top into a dress. I was a little afraid it would be small, based on the measurements, but it was fabulous!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I will be honest--I hate the drawings this company uses on their patterns. The drawings don't reflect what the clothing actually looks like, and most people will not take a chance on the patterns because of the drawings.

This top is not a cap sleeve top (which is what I originally got from the drawings), but a jewel neck sleeveless shell with French darts and a bit of flare to the hips. It makes up true to size, and without adjustments, it fits perfectly around. The shoulders are at the shoulder seams, not extended like in the line drawings.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Haha, instructions are for sissies...Really, I didn't even look at them. I sewed the darts, the shoulders and side seams, serged around the openings and turned and top stitched.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Besides the line drawings? Nothing. This is a great pattern, easy and quick.

Fabric Used:
Printed French terry that I over-dyed using RIT navy in the washing machine to get it an awesome colour.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I scooped out the neck (1" at the shoulders and back, an inch and a half at the center front) to make this a more boat necked style, which is more flattering to me than the jewel neckline. I lengthened the side seam about 21" with an a-line look, and then cut it off to knee length, which means I should have only lengthened it about 17" total. I have a totally comfortable sleeveless dress that pops over the head and looks classic.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I took a chance, and just sewed up some languishing stash using the pattern without any real changes except to lengthen it into a dress, and I will say that Peggy rules.

Before making any adjustments, I recommend that others do what Peggy suggests--pick your size based on your favourite finished measurement, trace and go. Based on this first garment, I would agree with Peggy's fir suggestions in her webcases--don't mess around. Start with the bust needed and go from there.

My next one I will actually do petite shortening (1" at the armhole, and one inch between armhole and waist) because the dart actually ends at my high hip which is a little low on me, and the armhole is just that little bit too low. Still, even without the changes, this is a totally wearable garment. I also think this will make a great summer shell that isn't too tight or too loose, which will be nice. My clothes from last summer all need to be taken in.

Conclusion:
This is seriously a sleeper pattern. I can't believe no one has ever reviewed the top before. 


And a few more variations of this dress:
Plum double knit, knee length

Printed Rayon Polyester Lycra, with scoop neck and black lingerie elastic trim for contrast
 

April 6, 2012

A thought on Good Friday

There are a lot of different interpretations about good Friday, and the cross.  Almost as many interpretations as preachers, I think.  But something struck me today, sitting in the service.

In some ways, I think of Good Friday not as a way to redeem us, but as an experience.  In Good Friday, Christ went through more horrors than most of us will ever face.  He saw the worst of people who should have had the best interests of others at heart and didn't--the government, the religious leaders, his friends, the military.  All of them let him down or hurt him in some way. 

He went through it all and he still got up in the morning. 

He was changed by his experiences (who wouldn't be?).  But he still had compassion and caring, and cared about the important things.  He was able to winnow the dross from the grain, and focus on the stuff that mattered. 

I hope, as I grow older and change, and deal with my own experiences, I can be like Christ.  Pulling the good from the bad, and still able to see the good.  Still be able to show compassion and caring in a very real way.  To me, this is the meaning of Easter. 

March 5, 2012

Would it pass the trouser test?

I've been doing the 'sew your own wardrobe' for a number of years now, and the one thing that has continued to trip me up is the whole idea of a neutral. 

Almost every wardrobe plan has a variation of: Sew a neutral base and add colour to it.  Inside column, outside column, capsule, all of them use neutrals as the base.

But--what is a neutral? And would I really wear it?

Some people would say that it is a colour found in your eyes, hair or skin tones.  There are a lot of great references for this idea, not the least of which is 'Triumph of Individual Style' (love this book; if you don't own it, you should get a copy!) and Nancy Rix's blog and wardrobe ideas.  Even so, I have hesitated to really use the idea until today, reading on Artisan's square, when I came across this comment: would you sew trousers in it?

There are lots of colours I love.  Seriously love.  Like red and white and electric blue.  White is the one that really stands out to me--it is a neutral.  Lots and lots of people wear trousers in white.  Not me though.  For my wardrobe, if it won't pass the trouser test, it isn't a neutral.  Neutrals are deep and dark in my world--dark denim, grey, black and if I really work at it--deep plum, and navy.  But I have to work at the last two.  

So, what colours, dear reader, are your neutrals?  And, would you wear trouser in them??

February 12, 2012

Pettiskirts, and a little of this, a little of that...

Once again, the week has been busy.  I think it is always busy, part of the reason that I haven't blogged consistently in the last year.  In fact, I think my life has honestly become too busy.

Take today for example:  arrive early at church, for choir practice, meeting after school for planning for senior youth group (my youngest is this age, and I have agreed to be one of the parent helpers; one of 5, I hope), ushering for a concert at church, and the final 'supper and shred search committee papers' party for hiring our new minister.  It is a little more packed than normal (take out the last two, and it is a normal Sunday chez The Boppings), but you get the idea.  Way too busy. There is only one thing in there I can really sneak out on early, and I probably will.

But it definitely begs the question: what is busy enough, and needs 'efficiency' and what is just too busy?  I haven't figured this one out (as you can all see from the above schedule).  But that is my goal for the year--cut to the jewels, and focus on that.

On the crafting front, I've finally cast on my OWL project (and nearly finished the first ball of yarn!) and I'm humming along on the squares front, too. 

I also finally sat down at the sewing machine for the first time since the plum pants (which are getting too big!) and sewed a pettiskirt.

What I thought I was sewing, from the Martha Stewart Living Instructions, 
Well, what I sewed was more like two half pettiskirts, one of which is not going to work, and one which will be beautiful. 

I foolishly started with the instructions from Martha Stewart Living.  Let me say that you should just not go there.  I have a half finished tiny pettiskirt that is not able to be finished because I did not have enough stuff.  It is maddening.  What a useless and annoying tutorial!   It leaves out many steps, doesn't refer to many things, and is plain wrong on the fabric count.

If you double check the math, however, you would have quickly realized that her numbers are wrong, and that she does not explain nearly enough of anything to actually accomplish the project. Had I read further, on other people's issues with the tutorial like this one, I would have quickly realized that I was going to have a problem.

I, of course, since I was in a hurry and the project is way over due for my friend, did not do the math.  I thought--Martha Stewart.  Should be ok.  That seems, a, little, light for fabric, but ok.  Um, yeah.  Trust your gut.  It was about 3 yards too light on fabric.  I have one part of one ruffle finished, and half of the second on the back.  It is just...aggravating.  I am going to finish it, but I have to go back to the store and purchase about twice more stuff than I have currently in my spare time.  Right.  Notice the schedule above?  There is no spare time.  Has to be done, though. Just too annoying to get it this far and not finish it.

(I will insert a picture of the half finished skirt here, later).

When I ran out of ruffle on the first half of the skirt, I gave up, and went back to my instructions from You Can Make This for pettiskirts.  I pulled a blue mystery fabric from the stash, and some white lace I have on a roll that cost me all of a dollar from a yard sale, and started again.  Longer ruffle cut lengths.  Flat construction (ever tried to put a full 8 yard tulle ruffle on an already constructed waist band?  I did it with the Martha Stewart instructions and I can tell you it is Not Recommended).   I changed a few things from the instructions--like using my ruffler set at the 2:1 ruffling ratio instead of trying to pull the ruffles by hand, but all in all, the whole thing works much much better than anything else.  And, seriously?  Their estimation for the amount of ruffle fabric is 2 1/2 yards just for the ruffle.  Martha Stewart had you purchase 3 yards total for the project.  Yeah, math.  But, even half finished, you can see how much better this one is going to be.  It isn't pink, but it is beautiful. 

(Insert picture of the half finished pettiskirt in blue, here!  )

I'm hoping that the princess twirl factor will over ride the 'not pink' factor.  If it doesn't, I'm keeping it! It will work as a faeryfest skirt for me.