November 16, 2014

Just a little sewing

The sewing bee is on over at Sewing Pattern review.  I decided to enter, failed to finish my skirt on time, and then decided to go for the sew along part.

This is the result for the sew along for Round two.  Five men's silk shirts (two of them dupioni!) to this:





The lightest blue shirt will end up becoming a tank top, but it isn't finished yet.  The jacket is #518 Fantasia jacket.  It is an expensive pattern, and I love the shape, but it didn't have seam allowances added so I avoided using it for years.  I finally decided to just cut the pattern up and use it  The skirt is Lekala 5088, the free three seam skirt.  If you haven't tried them yet, you should.  It is a perfect fit.   

I didn't have enough shirt to cut the length I needed for the pieces, so the jacket is a little shorter than I want, but I still like it.  The front band is made from the front band of the dark blue shirt.  It means I can button the whole thing up, or wear it open if I want.  I didn't add the optional ties or darts, but I will for the next one. 

I lined the skirt, and used a petrasham waistband because I definitely didn't have enough fabric anywhere to make a full length waist band.  The back of the skirt is the front of a shirt with buttons all the way down.

I have to say that I love this outfit!  It is so comfortable.  My husband would not let me move the cutting board or the pins when we too the pictures. 

July 18, 2014

Long time, no post!

Soooo....

Last November, I took over as Youth Group Leader, and that killed all forward momentum as far as sewing was concerned, along with all knitting and almost all other forms of creative life.  I said I would be able to do the job until February; they hired a lovely replacement for me as of the end of May.  She is a fabulous replacement, and will be excellent at the job.  I really like her, and so do the kids which is the important thing.  

I survived writing a novel, and a novella, having my child register for University nearly six hours away, and we have almost  almost bought a house.  Paperwork continues to take left turns, but we are buying a house.

Now, I am going back to sewing (and writing), as much because I have to decide to either move it or lose it, and there is a contest to use stashed patterns at the moment.  Sew sew sew.


I have been totally inspired by Vivienne's Starting from Scratch series.  A fellow blogger has summarized all the post links  and given a link to the discussion on Stitcher's Guild, too.  And you can buy the wardrobe guides (which you should because they are awesome).  So between this inspiration and the contests, and the fact that I have time in between packing boxes, I am sewing.

Some sewing was successful, and will have pictures.  Some of it will not.

On my current fail and give up on the pattern because I do not want to move it list:
1.  Scout Tshirt, loved by many, but it did not work for my body.  It was bad, so bad I threw the garment in the trash.  I did not enter it into the pattern stash contest.  It is well drafted.  It is a great pattern.  I am short and curved; it is neither.  I looked like I was wearing a sac.  It had straight side seams.  

2.  Favourite Top Pattern
I'm sad this one was a fail because it is comfortable and loose and perfect for a summer top.  Unfortunately, it is straight and square, and I am short and curved.  I will put up a picture because it is a great pattern.  It just doesn't work on me.

3.  Tank Top
This one is maddening because it should work.  I ordered a pattern based on my measurements but did not make a couple of needed adjustments.  It has straight sides.  I do not.  The armholes were too low (right--remember those adjustments?  this was part of them), the top was too short, the sides were too straight.

Recognize a pattern here?  Yeah, by now, I should, too.

Oh, but there were also sucesses!

1.  These pants
Fabulous!  Muslin fit first time out.  Final pants needed about a half inch scoop in the back, and the front waistband lowered for my tilted waist, an adjustment that I need to do for nearly every pair of pants.  But, length, waist size, hip size, proportions, drafting--all excellent and looks great on me.  And they are so comfortable.  These are on my make again list.

2.  These One Seams
Yes, they look like pj pants (and one seams are really pj pants when all is said and done), but I am wearing them right now.  Minor changes at the waist, same as above, and otherwise fabulous.  I will be making more of these.  These are narrow leg pull on pants.

3.  The White Shirt
This one was awesome.  I finally figured out I should start with a free pattern to determine my adjustments.  I've worn this shirt a couple of days now, and it is really comfortable.  The only thing is that the sleeve pattern was three inches too short--easy to fix (and check for on further patterns).

4.  The T-shirt
Fabulous pattern, fabulous drafting, fits perfectly.  Drafted for petites.  Free.   I love it.  I will be making many more.

5.  Maxi Skirt  
Love it.  Fits as is, no changes.   Double layer skirt.  Will make more than one. 

So, tomorrow when I wash the shirt, pictures. 


September 8, 2013

It is fall, so it must be....a new capsule time!

Fall is in the air around me in Southern Ontario.  The evenings are cool, the days warm, and now I turn to thinking about sewing.

I've been sewing, even though I fail at pictures.  Just a few pieces here and there.  I made a couple of fabulous cardigan sets, one in a red plum and one in a fabulous flowered print that my youngest called upscale Hawaiian (which it definitely is!), and one in a flower etched white stretch velvet.  All three of them are using different cardigans from the StyleArc patterns, and they are all awesome. Along with two different bottoms from rayon polyester crepe (a pair of one seam pants in a narrower leg width, and a pull on skirt with a flared bottom), and a pair of pink stretch denim pants, I think I have a full 8 (or 9) pack. And, even better, they are not all black.

But the real bonus is that they all go with the things I had made previously--like my teal sylearc skirt with the fold over waist band, my dark blue Barb pants, and my denim capris.  I love how sewing smart just adds to my options now.  I have done enough planning, enough thinning and have a good sense of my own style, so now things are beginning to work together even if I only make one or two pieces.

So fall is in the air, and I think I need to add a few dressier pieces to my wardrobe.

I've been thinking along the lines of using some dark grey rayon poly lycra to make a real suit jacket (from stylearc), a pair of dress pants or two, and a skirt.  And then to use some of my lovely embroidered cottons to make a few dress shirts.  I don't have many of those in my wardrobe at the moment, and I have two different patterns to try. These will mix and match with what I have, and give me a little more of a grown up vibe.  Which isn't a bad thing for a teacher.

StyleArc Sarah jacket
Leah Lounge Pants
Brenda Blouse--I think in white and in black would be awesome. 
Tiffany Blouse--in a soft plum or deep red

If I get even half of this done, I will be doing well.

August 2, 2013

Reality is in the Pictures (Or what I did not post for the stash contest, part one)

Those of you who have been reading me for a while realize that I do not love taking pictures, particularly of myself.  This means that although I have sewn a gazillion yards of fabric in the last two months, the reality is that I did not take or post pictures for reviews for the Stash Contest.

I know, bad bad bad. Particularly when I probably sewed enough fabric I would have been in the running to win.  I have won this contest before;  I do not need to win.  I need to see the bottom of the sewing room floor and be able to put everything away.  I need to use the stylearc patterns I have purchased.  I need to update my wardrobe.  These are my goals.  And, these are the goals I do think I managed to achieve.

So, dear reader, here is round one of the pictures.  I promise there are more items than this; I just have to rescue them from the wash.

Spinning Wheel Cover--4 1/2 yards
Ottobre T-shirt 1 yard
4 gore skirt- 1 yard
These did not make the 'keep me' cut!
The neck on the T-shirt is too high on me.
The skirt is just not flattering.
Exercise will do that. 


Ottobre T-Shirt--neck lowered,
but is still too high--1 yard
Variation 1--Alabama Chanin Tank Top--1 Yard
I wear this one a lot. 
Alabama Chanin Tank, Verion 2, 1 yard
I love this one more,
but the fabric is weird to the touch. 

Loes Hinse Dress--3 yards
Have to say that I love this silly thing!
Very 80s style, though.



Variation of Style Arc
False Front cardigan with a
Drafted Facing.
1 1/2 y
Bottom line: read the directions!
Did not make the cut, because of the fabric colour.
My friend loves it 
Alabama Chanin Tank Version 3
1 yard
Style Arc skirt--2 yards
I wear both of these a lot

Alabama chanin Tank Dress
1 1/4 yards
Love this silly thing!
Style Arc Capris, without the buttons.
1 yard
This fabric was really stretchy, and
I took them in three times.
Wear them, but they don't work
in my wardrobe (more about that later).
 

Style Arc Capri pants, just lengthened 7 inches.
1 1/4 y
I wear them, but the fabric stretches out like
Crazy!  They look like preggy pants
at the end of the day.  


Style Arc Caite Top, 1 yard
I wear this, but I am not convinced it is
flattering. It does, however, fit.  

Style Arc Kim Cruise Dress, shortened 4"
1 yard fabric, 1 Yard lining.
Fits well, not my colouring.
(Seeing a pattern here, dear reader?)


Style Arc Leggings
1 1/4 yards
Strech Fleece
Love love love these,
even if it is 95 degrees in the shade here. 
Style arc Capri Pants, dark grey,
lengthened
1 1/4 y
Wear these a lot, all the time.



So, this is round one of the 'what I did not post for the contest'  posts.  Yes, there was more sewing.  This is about a third of what I made.  There are still 3 maxi dresses, several pairs of legging shorts, denim capris, a jean jacket,  and at least 4 tank tops which have to be rescued  from the wash to take pictures on Judy.

What I will say at this point, however, is that my effort to make my summer wardrobe more light and bright was not my best wardrobe planning move (although my friend who loves loves loves those colours is really happy right now, since she is getting all my cast offs).  She looks amazing in the zigzag dress, and the light grey stuff works well with everything she owns.  Light bright and spring are her colours.  The deepest colour she wears is the bright blue.  So, she gets about 7 things to take home from this sewing exercise.  Still it is sewing fabric out of my stash.

I wear deep and dark and high contrast.  Plum, teal, steel blue, denim blue, deep grey, black, with larger more definitely black and white prints work in my wardrobe.  About the lightest I should go is the deep bright blue and bright pink (hot pink).  Even then, a darker intensity of the colour is better.  When I lined everything up on the rolling rack, the song that kept going through everyone's mind looking at the tan pants, and the light blue capri pants  was: some of these things are not like the others.  Some of these thing just do not belong.  And, that was the reality when I got dressed every day.  The denim capri pants got worn.  The light blue ones did not.

More later.


July 2, 2013

Why I love StyleArc Patterns

I love StyleArc Patterns.  Even though they come from half way around the world and they are single sized and they same cost as a Vogue Pattern, I love them. Why?  Because they fit!  And fit is worth the cost and the wait.  I can do the same thing to each pants pattern (shorten the leg 4", tilt the back 1", lower the front 1/2") and they fit.  I don't have to guess.  I don't have to hope they will fit.  They will. They might not have been the best style choice (LOL--having some issues with that at the moment) but they fit. 

To test this out, I just made the Laura Knit Leggings.  I was lazy so I didn't shorten the legs, but I did add the inch at the center back, and lower the front the 1/2" as usual.  I also used wider elastic, which puts the waist slightly lower than the expected spot, which is fine.  And, they fit perfectly. Well, except for the fact I need to shorten the legs 4" because I didn't do that when I started.  Now, I have to admit that leggings are probably not the best 'fashion' choice for my body, but I want exercise wear.  And I'm on a RTW fast, so that means making legging shorts for exercise class.  So, this is my test run pair:

Hmm, Iphone photos are much more challenging than I imagined
and wow, I need to tidy next time!
Laura leggings
Pattern: Laura Knit leggings, size 18.  The pattern includes a couple of length options, but it is really a doll clothes kind of pattern--one piece, sew it up.  When I ordered, I went up one size from my usual size because I am not comfortable with the very very tight look of fashion leggings.  This was a good choice, and something I would do again for a very tight fitting garment.  It does mean that there are wrinkles on the knees because they are looser than the fashion dictates. But, they are comfortable.

Fabric:  1 1/3 y  of  very old stash knit, thick ribbing style.

Notions: Thread, and 28 inches of 1 1/2" elastic for the waistband

Pattern Alterations: I added 1" to the center back rise, and lowered the center front rise 1/2".  Next pair I will also cut 4" off the leg length to make them the correct length.  The pooling is cute, though.

Comments:  I would highly recommend this pattern.  I love the fact that it is 'doll clothes'--as long as you pick the right size, and know the changes you need, the garment will fit.  The leggings are surprisingly comfortable.  Just be careful in your fabric choice, and pick very stretchy fabric, with good recovery.

I will be making these again.  The next pair is going to be some fleece lycra four way stretch, and then I'm making exercise shorts.

Wishful thinking, or Did I ever talk about SWAP?

A number of us have been reflecting on SWAP over at Artisan's square, and why we finished, or didn't, as the case may be.  Now, dear reader, I have to tell you that SWAP is worth doing, and I love it.  It helps you plan.  It makes things work.  And, there are clothes that I still wear from my very first black and white swap so many years ago.

But, this year's swap was a failure for me.  Not because I didn't have time like last year (I did), but because I violated that first rule of all sewing and fashion: know thyself.  Or, to put it more positively:  Dress what you have, not what you wish you were.  And, it is a sad fact, when looking in the mirror, that the very 'in look of the drop shoulder' does not flatter me in the least.  All of my swap was based on that look. 

This failure to finish is not the fault of swap.  I did not use the tools I have to make better design choices.  The clothes I made fit very well.  They just don't look awesome or wonderful on me.  This could have been prevented by using a personal croquis, and testing it all out in drawing.  A design course I took long ago taught me that you can tell if you will like something if you draw it out and like the design, and I have found that to be very true.  And a fashion drawing can head off many a fashion failure like this. 

My sister, who is a lovely fine boned rectangle, has inherited two of the pieces I made, and all the patterns, and is thrilled to pieces with them.  She rocks the dress that made me look like I was wearing a sac (still makes me want to cry that the dress did not work for me).  She was thrilled beyond words to get the patterns.  And I have decided that I will bite the bullet and make a proper croquis in the next week so that I have a better idea of what works for me.