Some Novembers are better than others; this one has been a hard one. A year ago, Remembrance day, my grandmother died. We had three deaths at church in a week. One of them was one I didn't expect at all--her breast cancer had returned, but she had been given about three years. She lasted two months. To finish off that, our fish is currently breathing his last. I will be surprised if he lasts the night.
Snape has been with us since my youngest was four. He was named Snape after the Harry Potter character, that first year the book was published, because he ate nearly all the other fish that shared his tank in the first year. After the second year, we gave up keeping other fish with him. For the last five years, he has regularly followed us along the glass of his tank every morning, giving us the evil 'feed me' glare. There is nothing quite like sitting to drink your coffee, and wondering what is looking at you, only to realize that it is your fish. He has been our companion through many ups and downs. And, it will be hard to lose him.
I shouldn't complain--he is nearly eleven years old, and his type of cyclid rarely lives longer than 8 years. But, seriously, losing him will be hard. We plan to get other fish (in fact, we were looking at other fish his size, knowing that he was close to elderly and probably wasn't going to last past Christmas), but knowing that and watching it happen are just different experiences.
So, here's to the house cup, and all that I haven't knit for this month. Here is my sweater, and how far I've gotten. I'm not going to finish my mitten--I'm having a hard time focusing because of my fish. And, it isn't an excuse that I want to post on the cup, somehow.
ramblings from a fibre fashionista who loves knitting, sewing, fashion, doll making...
30 November 2010
27 November 2010
Swap once more
Swap fever has begun again. For those who don't know, swap is Sewing with a plan (in other words, making a wardrobe that works together). Not as easy as it sounds, or looks, in my opinion, since I usually end up making two or three pieces that just don't go somehow, and so usually sew 14 or more pieces to get the final eleven.
I completed the very last swap that Julie ever ran, and I've managed to complete two since then, but somehow, last year swap fell by the wayside. I don't know why, except that I didn't really have an inspiration piece, and it was too....? I think I just got too busy, and school was extremely stressful towards the end. Sewing was definitely the last thing on my mind after I was surplused from my position. I did find a new, and way better, position at a brand new school, but I didn't complete the swap. And, then I started costuming a play--but that is for another blog post, I think.
The contest this year is here, on Stitcher's Guild. This year, the options for organizing the eleven garments of the swap are as follows:
Option #1:
6 tops - t-shirts, shirts, blouses, or camisoles
4 bottoms - jeans, pants, shorts, skirts or kilts.
1 your choice (not an accesory)
Option #2:
2 dresses -single pieces consisting of top and bottom that can be worn alone.
6 tops - t-shirts, shirts, blouses, or camisoles
2 bottoms - jeans, pants, shorts, skirts or kilts.
1 your choice (not an accesory)
Option #3:
5 dresses -single pieces consisting of top and bottom that can be worn alone.
4 tops - t-shirts, shirts, blouses, or camisoles
1 bottom - jeans, pants, shorts, skirt or kilt.
1 your choice (not an accesory)
3 garments may be purchased or previously sewn.
1 may be knitted or crocheted.
And, every year there is a twist. This year--Every garment should be made with a technique or feature that you haven't tried, or haven't mastered.
And here, my friends, is my challenge. How do I include techniques that I haven't tried or mastered in a wardrobe that isn't full of single amazing inspiration pieces? Those who have done less sewing have a lot more options with this twist, because, let's face it--if you are new to sewing, you haven't mastered a lot. But, I've been sewing for a long time, and I teach other people to sew for fun. The things that I haven't mastered or worked at are things like sewing with leather, or traditional tailoring, that don't fit into my casual wash and wear school teacher lifestyle, or a really for garments that are inspiration pieces that you make a wardrobe around. I'm finding this part of the swap challenge more....challenging....than I expected.
I think it probably goes without saying that I will be using option 1. I wear separates, and I don't really wear dresses. Well, maybe I wear one or two about once every two months. And, we are going into cold season, so dressing in layers is the norm. There is snow falling outside as I speak, and I love my wool sweater collection, and pants. My new room at school also has a wall of windows, which means that the wind cools the room quite effectively, even when the heat is on in the school. Those sweaters are getting a workout this year. If I do make dresses, they will be the 'plus' part of the swap--you know, the eleven final pieces, plus all the other stuff that got sewn and works with the wardrobe but didn't make the cut for the photographs LOL.
My colours are also easy. Since I started sewing with endless collections, where everything has to go with something else in the closet, I've limited myself to colours that work together well. So, black (deep grey), blue, red/cranberry, plum, and deep cinnamon brown are the backbone of my clothes colours. I can't see that changing any time soon. It makes getting dressed in the morning really easy.
So, enough of the complaining--time to do some problem solving about this swap thing. There has to be a way of making this work (literally).
I completed the very last swap that Julie ever ran, and I've managed to complete two since then, but somehow, last year swap fell by the wayside. I don't know why, except that I didn't really have an inspiration piece, and it was too....? I think I just got too busy, and school was extremely stressful towards the end. Sewing was definitely the last thing on my mind after I was surplused from my position. I did find a new, and way better, position at a brand new school, but I didn't complete the swap. And, then I started costuming a play--but that is for another blog post, I think.
The contest this year is here, on Stitcher's Guild. This year, the options for organizing the eleven garments of the swap are as follows:
Option #1:
6 tops - t-shirts, shirts, blouses, or camisoles
4 bottoms - jeans, pants, shorts, skirts or kilts.
1 your choice (not an accesory)
Option #2:
2 dresses -single pieces consisting of top and bottom that can be worn alone.
6 tops - t-shirts, shirts, blouses, or camisoles
2 bottoms - jeans, pants, shorts, skirts or kilts.
1 your choice (not an accesory)
Option #3:
5 dresses -single pieces consisting of top and bottom that can be worn alone.
4 tops - t-shirts, shirts, blouses, or camisoles
1 bottom - jeans, pants, shorts, skirt or kilt.
1 your choice (not an accesory)
3 garments may be purchased or previously sewn.
1 may be knitted or crocheted.
And, every year there is a twist. This year--Every garment should be made with a technique or feature that you haven't tried, or haven't mastered.
And here, my friends, is my challenge. How do I include techniques that I haven't tried or mastered in a wardrobe that isn't full of single amazing inspiration pieces? Those who have done less sewing have a lot more options with this twist, because, let's face it--if you are new to sewing, you haven't mastered a lot. But, I've been sewing for a long time, and I teach other people to sew for fun. The things that I haven't mastered or worked at are things like sewing with leather, or traditional tailoring, that don't fit into my casual wash and wear school teacher lifestyle, or a really for garments that are inspiration pieces that you make a wardrobe around. I'm finding this part of the swap challenge more....challenging....than I expected.
I think it probably goes without saying that I will be using option 1. I wear separates, and I don't really wear dresses. Well, maybe I wear one or two about once every two months. And, we are going into cold season, so dressing in layers is the norm. There is snow falling outside as I speak, and I love my wool sweater collection, and pants. My new room at school also has a wall of windows, which means that the wind cools the room quite effectively, even when the heat is on in the school. Those sweaters are getting a workout this year. If I do make dresses, they will be the 'plus' part of the swap--you know, the eleven final pieces, plus all the other stuff that got sewn and works with the wardrobe but didn't make the cut for the photographs LOL.
My colours are also easy. Since I started sewing with endless collections, where everything has to go with something else in the closet, I've limited myself to colours that work together well. So, black (deep grey), blue, red/cranberry, plum, and deep cinnamon brown are the backbone of my clothes colours. I can't see that changing any time soon. It makes getting dressed in the morning really easy.
So, enough of the complaining--time to do some problem solving about this swap thing. There has to be a way of making this work (literally).
29 September 2010
What I've been doing for the cup....
First, there was the dye experiment...all done with food colour.
Then there was the realization that all our wash cloths were done for.
and, the dragon, which is a lot of smoke....
And, what I wish I was working on...the Central Park Hoodie for dd1.
Then there was the realization that all our wash cloths were done for.
and, the dragon, which is a lot of smoke....
And, what I wish I was working on...the Central Park Hoodie for dd1.
6 August 2010
Playing with colour
It seems that every time I look at my stash, it is multiplying exponentially. I am always on the lookout to figure out how to use up the stash in some useful manner, particularly those odd balls and bits. One idea is to pull a bunch of balls of stuff, and then, throw the colours into the random stripe generator. What a fun way to just attempt to make a sweater or something else with stripes that aren't matched. On Ravelry, others have used this idea to create blankets and things.
Me--I'm thinking a sweater, bordered in black like my Molly sweater. Except, with more neck shaping and a front band in black to break it up a little.
Me--I'm thinking a sweater, bordered in black like my Molly sweater. Except, with more neck shaping and a front band in black to break it up a little.
18 July 2010
BSJ Hat:
I've been editing my BSJ pattern to create a spreasheet style pattern because I like to check off each row as I go. I also want to make sure that the numbers are correct as written. When I have the pattern perfect (or at least closer to perfect) I will figure out how to upload a link for a downloadable pdf, for others to enjoy. In the meantime, here is a a pattern for a matching hat.
6 sts/inch makes a preemie bsj that is 11" around.
Changing the gauge to 4.5 sts/inch (4.5 mm needles, worsted weight wool) makes a 14" preemie bsj, which is good for a 5-7 lb baby. One ball of Red Heart will make the whole set. I made the blue set out of a ball of ombre/paints (3 oz instead of 4 oz), and I had about 2 yards left.
BSJ matching hat:
Hat is knit back and forth on two needles and then seamed. Gauge should match sweater.
Cast on 64 stitches. Knit 20 ridges (40 rows).
Decreases:
Row 1: (k6, k2tog) across row.
Row 2 and all wrong side rows: knit
row 3: (k5, k2tog) across row
row 5: (k4, k2tog) across row
row 7: (k3, k2tog) across row
row 9: (k2, k2tog) across row
row 11: (k1, k2 tog) across row
row 12: k2 tog across row.
row 13: k2tog across row.
Finish hat by sewing tail of last row through all stitches to gather. Sew up side seam.
BSJ matching booties:
gauge and needle to match sweater.
Booties are knit from the bottom to the ankle, in garter stitch.
Make 2.
Cast on 35 stitches. Knit 6 ridges (12 rows).
Toe decreases:
row 1: k15, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k15
row 2: k14, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k14
row 3: k13, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k13
continue in this manner until you are knitting k10, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k10 (23 stitches).
Next--eyelet row: k2, (yo, k2tog) across row, end k1.
Knit 5 more rows. Bind off wrong side, knitwise.
Sew up back seam and bottom of bootie.
Ties (make 2): Cable cast on 80-90 stitches. Cast off. This makes a tie that looks like an icord, but it is much faster. You could use ribbon instead. Thread through the eyelet row in the bootie, and tie in a bow.
6 sts/inch makes a preemie bsj that is 11" around.
Changing the gauge to 4.5 sts/inch (4.5 mm needles, worsted weight wool) makes a 14" preemie bsj, which is good for a 5-7 lb baby. One ball of Red Heart will make the whole set. I made the blue set out of a ball of ombre/paints (3 oz instead of 4 oz), and I had about 2 yards left.
BSJ matching hat:
Hat is knit back and forth on two needles and then seamed. Gauge should match sweater.
Cast on 64 stitches. Knit 20 ridges (40 rows).
Decreases:
Row 1: (k6, k2tog) across row.
Row 2 and all wrong side rows: knit
row 3: (k5, k2tog) across row
row 5: (k4, k2tog) across row
row 7: (k3, k2tog) across row
row 9: (k2, k2tog) across row
row 11: (k1, k2 tog) across row
row 12: k2 tog across row.
row 13: k2tog across row.
Finish hat by sewing tail of last row through all stitches to gather. Sew up side seam.
BSJ matching booties:
gauge and needle to match sweater.
Booties are knit from the bottom to the ankle, in garter stitch.
Make 2.
Cast on 35 stitches. Knit 6 ridges (12 rows).
Toe decreases:
row 1: k15, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k15
row 2: k14, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k14
row 3: k13, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k13
continue in this manner until you are knitting k10, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k10 (23 stitches).
Next--eyelet row: k2, (yo, k2tog) across row, end k1.
Knit 5 more rows. Bind off wrong side, knitwise.
Sew up back seam and bottom of bootie.
Ties (make 2): Cable cast on 80-90 stitches. Cast off. This makes a tie that looks like an icord, but it is much faster. You could use ribbon instead. Thread through the eyelet row in the bootie, and tie in a bow.
20 March 2010
The spinning wheel--part 2
I made the flyer assembly holder, and it works when it is all strung together. Or at least, everything moves the way it is supposed to when you move the wheel. Tee hee.
Pithy notes:
The flyer assembly has an elbow with a t attached. The T goes onto the top of the wheel upright. I cut the connector piece about 2" long, just long enough to connect the two pieces with very little showing, which lets the flyer assembly be directly above the wheel. The upright part where the front of the flyer assembly sits is 4" long. On the top of this upright, I drilled a part hole (with difficulty!), and then madly sanded the whole thing, because it was rough and would make a mess. It sits nicely in the depression now.
The piece connecting the t to the back elbow is 4" long, and can be adjusted back and forth so it will be in the right position for the flyer. The hole for the back upright to line the whole thing up is at the 4" mark; it is a 3/8" hole so there is a little bit of movement for putting the flyer assembly into the flyer holder. I still need a brake assembly on the back of the flyer assembly holder, but that will happen tomorrow.
Still thinking through the footman and pedal assembly. My wheel doesn't turn on the front post--the post goes through the whole thing, and doesn't move, so the plan to attach the footman drive to the post won't work. I need to drill a hole in the wheel to attach a footman upright and the pedal. But, I can see it working.
Pithy notes:
The flyer assembly has an elbow with a t attached. The T goes onto the top of the wheel upright. I cut the connector piece about 2" long, just long enough to connect the two pieces with very little showing, which lets the flyer assembly be directly above the wheel. The upright part where the front of the flyer assembly sits is 4" long. On the top of this upright, I drilled a part hole (with difficulty!), and then madly sanded the whole thing, because it was rough and would make a mess. It sits nicely in the depression now.
The piece connecting the t to the back elbow is 4" long, and can be adjusted back and forth so it will be in the right position for the flyer. The hole for the back upright to line the whole thing up is at the 4" mark; it is a 3/8" hole so there is a little bit of movement for putting the flyer assembly into the flyer holder. I still need a brake assembly on the back of the flyer assembly holder, but that will happen tomorrow.
Still thinking through the footman and pedal assembly. My wheel doesn't turn on the front post--the post goes through the whole thing, and doesn't move, so the plan to attach the footman drive to the post won't work. I need to drill a hole in the wheel to attach a footman upright and the pedal. But, I can see it working.
19 March 2010
The spinning wheel--part 1
I want a spinning wheel. I don't need it, but I want it.
I've tried drop spindling, and it makes my hands ache from the twisting, and then I have trouble writing; drop spindling is not for me. My mom offered me her wheel as a loan. It is a traditional style Canadian wheel, but the orifice is 17" off the ground. I have to sit on a 6" stool to spin. That was great when I was 10 and learning to spin, but I can't do that now with the way my hip keeps deciding not to work, or my knee creaks. It is a great wheel for her, though. There is no way I can talk the man into a spinning wheel made of wood. The least expensive one I have seen is about $600, and it goes up from there. I also prefer the centered wheel style of wheel, like a Kiwi, or a folding wheel, like the Ashford Traveller ($800 to $900 where I am). Definitely not in the budget with the older one going to university in the fall.
So, in the spirit of "Can Do" that I grew up with, I started gathering bits and pieces and making plans to make my own wheel. This is a record of my process; I don't know it if will work or not, but, hey, it is worth an experiment or two. Right?
I've done a lot of research online. There are not a lot of diy wheel plans, except for the great wheel style. The great wheel is a spindle based wheel without a foot pedal drive. It works well for cotton and fine yarns, but it takes up a fair bit of space. The chakra spinning wheel is a smaller version of this wheel. There is a more traditional style plan, available from a wood working site, but, well, I'm not going to talk anyone into turning a wheel for me. And, the wood alone is more than I want to invest. The electric spinning wheel here is a great plan, and those who have made it love it. But, I want to have foot pedal power that is not dependent on electricity. My goal is to make a babe inspired wheel. I like the idea of their wheels, and the cost, and the light weight, but two or three hundred dollars is still out of my budget. Eventually I will get one, with a woollee winder. Right now, I want to try and make a wheel of my own.
You can make everything for a spinning wheel, including the flyer head and the bobbins. The most reasonable plans for a flyer and bobbins I've seen are included with the electric wheel plans. But, after looking a long time at the electric spinner, I decided that I was not going to make the flyer and bobbins. Maybe with the next spinning wheel, or as a variation of this one. I purchased an Ashford Traveller fly assembly and three bobbins, for about $85. The assembly came with a drive band, a brake band and an orifice threading hook (yeah!). The only problem with the Ashford flyer, though, is that the drive wheels are on the front of the flyer, and all of the pvc style spinning wheels I have seen have the drive assembly at the back of the flyer. It was a small set back; my original plan had to be changed a bit. Well, a lot. The good part about this style though, is that the issues with the flyer head popping out of the front of the PVC holding pipe will probably be eliminated, since I'm expecting that the drive band will hold it down.
The frame of the wheel will be made of 1" plumbing pipe--the cream coloured incredibly hard pipe that is very sturdy. The short sides are cut 13" (so far); front long side is 18"; the back sides are 8 1/4" on either side of the T connector to fit the upright. I've cut the upright 22 inches, and marked the hole spot for the wheel an inch above center. The wheel is a 17" plastic wheel rim for a bmx bike, that cost me $20 at a second hand bike shop. Including the glue and the pipe cutter, I've spent about $70. (Yeah, I know--I could have bought a babe for that; but now it is the challenge of the thing, right).
Next--to figure out how to put together the flyer assembly, and the line it up with the wheel.
I've tried drop spindling, and it makes my hands ache from the twisting, and then I have trouble writing; drop spindling is not for me. My mom offered me her wheel as a loan. It is a traditional style Canadian wheel, but the orifice is 17" off the ground. I have to sit on a 6" stool to spin. That was great when I was 10 and learning to spin, but I can't do that now with the way my hip keeps deciding not to work, or my knee creaks. It is a great wheel for her, though. There is no way I can talk the man into a spinning wheel made of wood. The least expensive one I have seen is about $600, and it goes up from there. I also prefer the centered wheel style of wheel, like a Kiwi, or a folding wheel, like the Ashford Traveller ($800 to $900 where I am). Definitely not in the budget with the older one going to university in the fall.
So, in the spirit of "Can Do" that I grew up with, I started gathering bits and pieces and making plans to make my own wheel. This is a record of my process; I don't know it if will work or not, but, hey, it is worth an experiment or two. Right?
I've done a lot of research online. There are not a lot of diy wheel plans, except for the great wheel style. The great wheel is a spindle based wheel without a foot pedal drive. It works well for cotton and fine yarns, but it takes up a fair bit of space. The chakra spinning wheel is a smaller version of this wheel. There is a more traditional style plan, available from a wood working site, but, well, I'm not going to talk anyone into turning a wheel for me. And, the wood alone is more than I want to invest. The electric spinning wheel here is a great plan, and those who have made it love it. But, I want to have foot pedal power that is not dependent on electricity. My goal is to make a babe inspired wheel. I like the idea of their wheels, and the cost, and the light weight, but two or three hundred dollars is still out of my budget. Eventually I will get one, with a woollee winder. Right now, I want to try and make a wheel of my own.
You can make everything for a spinning wheel, including the flyer head and the bobbins. The most reasonable plans for a flyer and bobbins I've seen are included with the electric wheel plans. But, after looking a long time at the electric spinner, I decided that I was not going to make the flyer and bobbins. Maybe with the next spinning wheel, or as a variation of this one. I purchased an Ashford Traveller fly assembly and three bobbins, for about $85. The assembly came with a drive band, a brake band and an orifice threading hook (yeah!). The only problem with the Ashford flyer, though, is that the drive wheels are on the front of the flyer, and all of the pvc style spinning wheels I have seen have the drive assembly at the back of the flyer. It was a small set back; my original plan had to be changed a bit. Well, a lot. The good part about this style though, is that the issues with the flyer head popping out of the front of the PVC holding pipe will probably be eliminated, since I'm expecting that the drive band will hold it down.
The frame of the wheel will be made of 1" plumbing pipe--the cream coloured incredibly hard pipe that is very sturdy. The short sides are cut 13" (so far); front long side is 18"; the back sides are 8 1/4" on either side of the T connector to fit the upright. I've cut the upright 22 inches, and marked the hole spot for the wheel an inch above center. The wheel is a 17" plastic wheel rim for a bmx bike, that cost me $20 at a second hand bike shop. Including the glue and the pipe cutter, I've spent about $70. (Yeah, I know--I could have bought a babe for that; but now it is the challenge of the thing, right).
Next--to figure out how to put together the flyer assembly, and the line it up with the wheel.
1 March 2010
Body of the dragon
This is the body of the dragon (one third of the whole thing!). It is way bigger than I expected (about 23 inches before the head or the feet).
28 February 2010
Olympic Sweater, but the gold was wishful thinking.
Like the last time, my goal was to knit an olympic sweater. Perhaps if that had been the only thing I was doing, I would have made it, but I also made another sweater this month, and part of a dragon.
Here is the olympic hoodie, not yet blocked on its intended recipient:
I got the hood half way done, and realized that it would not make the closing ceremonies deadline with two sleeves to go. So, this week, my goal is to finish the sleeves, put in the zipper, and work on my other unfinished projects (including my dragon).
Here is the olympic hoodie, not yet blocked on its intended recipient:
I got the hood half way done, and realized that it would not make the closing ceremonies deadline with two sleeves to go. So, this week, my goal is to finish the sleeves, put in the zipper, and work on my other unfinished projects (including my dragon).
Crochet Blanket of Doom
Well, hoping to use up stash, I started this:
I'm a third of the way along, and so far, so good (but I'm still a knitter at heart.)
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